Jumping Venice Thursday, Apr 24 2008 

I still wasn’t really able to get into Venice this time round – my second trip there – though my experience had become much more pleasant, as we stayed in a nice neighbourhood (Santa Croce / San Polo) and hung out with our BFF Ming, who had been kind enough to fly down from London to grace us with her presence for the weekend.

A visit to the fascinating Jewish Ghetto didn’t hurt either – a wedding was taking place at the Spanish synagogue (one of four-five synagogues there, not all of which are currently active). A placid oldish man stood outside the doorway with a basket on his arm, handing out skullcaps to the males who looked dressed for the occasion. The bride seemed to be fashionably late, and guests took their time to arrive, secure in this knowledge. A big crowd of Venetians and tourists alike had gathered around to await her arrival, which anticipation would ultimately render disappointing.

Jewish Skullcaps

And so we left before we saw her, in order to take the slow vaporetto down the Rialto. Crowded as it was with tourists, I was jabbed in the ribs rather uncomfortably by an inconsiderate man, and alighted quite gratefully. As usual, tourists abounded in Piazza San Marco, though I had a fairly amusing encounter almost walking round the corner into a hurrying, statuesque Italian model of a man on a handphone, who would probably have brushed me off his lapels like a dead fly if I had so much as nudged past him.

What redeemed the Venetian experience was, for me, ultimately the jumping Ming, Cindy and I undertook. It happened quite spontaneously, when I was trying to get a picture of a doorway, and Cindy kept jumping across the frame. I said, “Let’s take a picture of you and Ming jumping then!” And what first resulted isn’t really fit to put on the internet… (mainly for Cindy’s sake) The following is a much improved version:

Different personalities, different jumping styles

Snapshot in Low Season, Part 2 Tuesday, Apr 22 2008 

Cindy and I sat in a corner of the pub-restaurant, looking distinctly out of place in our Asianness, and with our cameras and guidebooks. No other customer was in the restaurant when we placed our orders for the scaloppina (for Cindy) and Bohinj sausage (for me).

Then the doors swung noisily open and a group of four-five middle-aged men in jeans and shirts entered, sitting at a table opposite the room. One of them had brought his dog, whom he spoke sternly to during the course of his conversation with his friends – a loud raucous conversation it was, accompanied with beer and nothing else. Occasionally, a young-ish man who spoke particularly loudly lumbered awkwardly over to their table and made a few broken, sonorous remarks that startled us every time he spoke.

We took our time with our dinner – also ordering a dish of nutty pancakes to share, though we were hardly hungry after a three-course (or was it four-course?) lunch, also including a (far superior) bunch of pancakes with raspberries at a great restaurant earlier that day. Before we were done, the men were gone, the dog trotting obediently at his master’s heels. Another lone individual had entered in the meantime – he leaned against the counter, nursing a drink slowly and quietly.

The night was freezing, and the streets were dark. We had 15 mins to go before we could reach the warmth and security of our hotel. Heavy clouds hovered above the clear lake, and the dark mountains beyond lent an eerily lovely air to it. Outside the restaurant, an old man made as if to walk over us, saying something in Slovene in a deep, alarming and urgent voice. We pretended not to notice, and strode away quickly, chattering to keep out the cold and loneliness of the village streets.

Last day Saturday, Apr 19 2008 

Milan completely overwhelmed me. Coming from the Slovene countryside where I learnt about alpine dairy farming and fantasised about camping under the starry nightsky (albeit only when warmer), the fashionably busy Milanese population shoving me in and out of the human traffic terrorised me.

We noticed the following:

  1. Instant makeover for people wearing huge sunglasses that cover half their faces. I think we should all invest in a pair. Of course, if one cannot look half decent even with half the face covered, then…sorry.
  2. Goodlooking men dating plain janes. I firmly believe that’s only right. There is hope yet for me! Notwithstanding my crippling shyness when it comes to cute men (see earlier entry).
  3. More Asians in Milan than the sum total we’ve seen in the rest of Italy. Though we did see a Chinese restaurant in Ljubljana.
  4. Too many annoying Italian youths. “I thought they had a low birth rate! Where did all these people come from!”

Tomorrow we fly home. Thereafter, Poach and I will write retrospectively on our trip memories.

It’s difficult to imagine ending this holiday – already! But certainly, I’m glad to be going home – to my dog, my bed, dependable weather and to a certain extent, the feeling of owning my space, rather than intruding on someone else’s as a curious tourist.

Anyway the trip has satisfied my hypothesis that Italian men are overrated. Besides those dating plain Janes. Those I like.

Slovenian Jazz Saturday, Apr 19 2008 

We were treated to a night of Slovenian jazz last night, in Ljubljana’s only real jazz club, Jazz Club Gajo (named for the owner). Gajo played the drums – with his melancholy windswept grey hair, perpetual frown and dark eyebrows, he emanated, somehow, a tragic sort of dignity. The singer, whose name I didn’t quite catch, was gorgeous – close-cropped black hair capping a fair face, with smouldering dark eyes that winked (rather too often we thought!) at the pianist. Her voice was soulful, drowning those present in a forgetful state. A man with a small ponytail strode forth to hand her a flower, and everyone laughed when Gajo said that they grew nice flowers at the Parliament House nearby.

We were the only Asians present, or indeed, part of a mere handful of Asians we had seen in Slovenia during our entire sojourn there. And we were poorly dressed for a night out – me in my sneakers and t-shirt, and Cindy in her half-torn fake Adida zip-up hoodie. But we were somehow part of the same community in those few hours of music, which even to my tone-deaf ears encapsulated everything that had been magical and wonderful about the little country we had decided, on a whim, to visit.

Stopover in Bled Friday, Apr 18 2008 

On our way back to Ljubljana today, we stopped by Bled. One would have thought that we might have wanted to row on the lake, or climb up the hill to Castle Bled (which we didn’t do during our first transition here – instead, we trekked up a 685m peak that was, fortunately, completely deserted so I could take a much-needed toilet break at the top). Or maybe we would have wanted to stop by one of what the Rough Guide to Slovenia termed Bled’s ‘characterful’ restaurants for lunch.

But no, our main reason for stopping by Bled was to eat the marvellous kremna rezina and grmada as dessert after a largely average lunch at Bistro Arbor (situated in the terrible shopping center). The desserts can be obtained at a hugely popular pasticceria not far from the bus station. In the display shelves lie perhaps 20+ homemade sweets, but we had eyes only for the two we had bought back to our hotel 2 days ago. They are magnificent, with a faint taste of egg and a light tasty dusting of sugar on the flaky pastry of the kremna rezina, and the tantalising flavour of raisins and alcohol in the moist cream-topped grmada.

On our way to Bled, one of the women who worked at the bakery boarded the bus we were on.  Strangely enough, Cindy only paid attention to her orange pants, while I remembered her face from the time she had recommended us those two desserts, and told us emphatically that grmada was not tiramisu though it looked like it. Does this show something about Cindy’s and my respective priorities in life (besides the fact that Cindy only pays attention to people’s lower physical halves, so watch out, men)?

No luck Friday, Apr 18 2008 

“I have seen more cute boys than you!” Poach is so smug I want to strangle her. And I have tried, several times.

Mainly she is referring to the cute chef we saw at Bohinj, at this lovely restaurant called Rupa. The chef asked, “Where are you from?” I was in the washroom and Poach was outside waiting. Unlikely location for a pick-up. I missed the entire exchange. Poach did not say a word about the fabulous meal that we just had. Or ask for his contact. Or mention how cute her good friend is. Or even try to stall him with mundane small talk so I could also join in the conversation and look at his “gorgeous eyes.” That traitor.

“I did see him,” I later protested, when she showed off her intimate interaction with Chef Boy. I caught a glimpse of him right before we went downstairs to the washroom but I was so shy that I didn’t dare take a closer look or even smile at him.

The same way I was so shy that I didn’t dare even take a picture (from a distance) of the cute Vegetable Boy at the Venice produce market. Or look at the Counter Boy at a Venetian Rostecceria except through the reflection off the shop window.

Grand ambitions for a holiday fling aside, I have let myself down. Even Poach has managed a decent (albeit useless) conversation with Chef Boy. What do I have? Creepy old men at distant Slovenian villages trying to get me drunk with blueberry liquor and then cop a feel with a goodbye hug.

Sigh. I accept my place in life. Cute boys are not mine.

Rain Friday, Apr 18 2008 

Damp
It has been rainy at the lakes in the northwest of Slovenia, but Cindy and I have still managed to have some measure of fun. The latest adventure involves scaling the (admittedly low) entrance gates of a waterfall at 9am – we had the feeling that the kiosk was still technically closed because it’s low season, but we forged ahead anyway.

After a quick but strenuous climb to the viewing hut, and a few pictures, the fog rolled in and obscured the waterfall from our view.

We didn’t manage to paraglide because of the weather, but I guess we’re lucky in some other small but significant ways…

Retirement Home Thursday, Apr 17 2008 

Behind the mountains
Cindy and I discussed what we would do each day when we finally retired at Lake XXX in Slovenia.

First, we would wake up for a run around the magnificent lake (provided it isn’t snowing of course, as it unfortunately is today). Then, I would go for my class in canyoning or paragliding, while Cindy would sit by the lake pretending she was a painter.

We would have goulash and polenta for lunch, washed down with beer and followed by kremna rezina, a creamy flaky pastry found only around here.

In the afternoon, I would go horse-riding while Cindy would stack hay and make fresh cheese for our consumption in the quaint cottages nearby. Before dinner, we would take the dog(s) for a run in the woods and meadows around the lake. The dog(s) would likely pretend they were ducks, and swim after the poor buggers in the water, scaring them into flight.

If the weather is good, we could have dinner outdoors, watching the sun set behind the snowcapped mountains.

Air in my hair Thursday, Apr 17 2008 

Air in my hair

When in Venice, Ming, Poach and I started this silly tradition of doing jumping pictures. This is the latest.

Fairytale destination Thursday, Apr 17 2008 

Castles in the air

Bled was supposedly the most popular tourist destination in Slovenia. And for good reason I suppose. The castle in on a treacherous cliff. The church in the middle of the lake. The fresh air. The feeling of HOLIDAY.

Admittedly, I was suffering from a little travel fatigue, especially after Venice. (More about Venice another time perhaps, what in my mind reminds me of Vegas.) But after a refreshing stop in Ljubljana, Bled was a new beginning. A dream.

Bled island

Next Page »