Padang Monday, Oct 12 2009 

Two years ago I was in Padang, Western Sumatra for three days.

The people were wonderfully friendly, from the family in the nasi padang restaurant (best chicken wings ever) who told us that their relatives had set up shop in Singapore to the ‘uncle’ who posed behind his ancient cash register for us while we took up space chomping on gado gado salad in his odds-and-ends shop.

A week or so after Lorraine and I left, they experienced an earthquake. The tourguide who had brought us around for a day told us via e-mail that his camera had fallen off the shelf and was broken. His tone was more matter-of-fact than alarmed though – we had been told several times that this city sat on a precarious faultline.

Two years later, I wonder whether these people are okay, whether the fishing villages we saw by the edge of the beach, and the houses I saw perched by the hillside on my drive past Padang en route to Cubadak, survived.

If you are so inclined, please give something. The link for international visitors is here.

Making a Banh My Pâté Sunday, Jun 21 2009 

Ignore the idiotic commentary.

…. then, you get to sink your teeth into this:

MMmmmm

Fifth Time’s the Charm Sunday, Jun 21 2009 

After my fifth time back in Vietnam, I think the spell’s finally broken.

There have always been two groups of people in my mind – those who love Vietnam, and those who hate it. I’ve friends in the latter camp, who carp about the heavy traffic, the money-grubbing vendors, the rude cyclo drivers, the perpetual honking. And I’ve always seen what they see, having been cheated by cyclo drivers before, driven away from a pho stall by a vendor who didn’t seem to like Chinese tourists very much another time, and spoken to coldly by sharp guesthouse owners more than once. But I’ve also been mesmerised, in some strange way, by the abundance of strong iced coffee, luxurious restaurants, endless fields, still lakes, and human drama enacted in pyjama trousers and with babes in arms on the city pavements. I have returned year after year to cheap streetside meals, the promise of tailored clothes, evocative homegrown artwork and elegant lacquerware.

The jostling crowds at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum in Hanoi this time round started to get under my skin, however, and I was particularly riled when the inexplicably enraged female security personnel tried to snatch my mom’s purse away from her, probably yelling about how we weren’t allowed to carry such sacrilegious objects into the presence of Uncle Ho’s sacred body. And the Ho Chi Minh Museum, such a strange delight the last time, was crowded beyond belief this time. All the air-conditioners in the city seemed broken, and we resorted to taking two showers a day (one a mid-day shower) to obtain relief. The friendly che stall owner had disappeared and the cool dessert was now only served in the evening, when it wasn’t needed quite as much. The price at Cha Ca Va Long had risen again, this time by 30,000VND (S$3), and with no pungent purplish nuoc mam provided, even. (It’s a condiment, people – give it for free!)

I would still go back, with good friends who enjoy good food, good art, and slow sweltering walks through old quarters. Hoan Kiem Lake was as beautiful and entertaining as ever, with its snoozing policemen, active old ladies, colourfully clad middle-aged dames, and creative bridal couples. The food was still pretty amazing – crabmeat soups and shredded chicken porridge being my new discoveries this June. But there is no longer that magnetic pull that was so difficult to explain or qualify to people who know me.

Happy Trekking Monday, Dec 8 2008 

… is, thankfully, not always about seeing sights or even reaching a destination. After all, the crater may be covered in fog by the time you reach the top of that volcanic mountain, or the clouds may have obscured the brilliant sunset you had been hoping for.

Instead, it is about putting one foot before the other, regulating your breathing, keeping as quiet as possible so you can hopefully happen upon the unexpected (hopefully harmless) wildlife that may suddenly fade into sight amongst the otherwise confusing tangle of branches and vines.

Despite our best attempt to stay silent while clumsily pulling ourselves up (or down) steep slopes and past bulky tree roots, the most exciting wildlife that Mom, Sis and I spotted in Bako National Park ended up wandering across our path when we were about to leave the park via its headquarters (a bearded pig and some proboscis monkeys). (Doh.) But we had been thrilled by the hush of the rainforest prior to that anyway, and also primed for the encounter by our first approach to the island via the soft beach at low tide.

I’d like to stay overnight at Bako the next time I return to Kuching, and wake up at the crack of dawn to witness the arboreal feedings of the silver-leaf monkeys, as well as spy on the sun-basking monitor lizards on the beach.

Pensive Mom, walking to Bako National Park from the boat They said there'd be proboscis monkeys...

Gentle Sarawak Friday, Dec 5 2008 

There’s something about Malaysia – its wide-open, reckless roads; unrelenting afternoon sun; and sprawling industrial estates along the highway – that causes an odd sense of displacement. If Vietnam reminds us of Singapore in the 70s, Malaysia may well be the late 80s; and if this is the case, since I was actually alive and kicking in the 80s, I should feel a greater, and more genuine sense of nostalgia while visiting Malaysia.

And I do, especially in Kuching, where a fairly large Chinese population resides. Colourful shophouses producing furniture, noodles, and coffins ply the riverfront, while grizzled uncles who grunt instead of speak provide much-needed directions and delicious noodles. The food is Chinese with a twist – exotic belacan midin, kam pua noodles, belacan beehoon with thick slices of cuttlefish, and guang bing or “kong pia”. Breezy, cosy coffeeshops where you have to sit meekly and wait for the proprietor to notice you before your order can be taken abound. And taxi-drivers – gruff, shrewd, yet by turns garrulous and kind, willingly come earlier than the stipulated time to pick their passengers up from far-flung places like the Orangutan Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre, somehow mysteriously managing to slip pass the entrance without having to pay a fee, and announcing their presence with a sudden and hearty “did you see many?” when everyone is absorbed by the ongoing drama between the orangutans on the feeding platform.

The Other Side of America(na) Sunday, Nov 16 2008 

The very cool eatingasia has a post on Americana, which captures so much of what I love about the US – not just the big, ritzy cities, but also the forgotten towns and wacky highway stops in-between (I so want to visit New Mexico).

Jonathan Lethem’s The Fortress of Solitude, which is about a white kid growing up in a predominantly black Brooklyn in the 70s, delves beyond that picture-postcard perfection, though – I’m nowhere near done with it, but it brought back recent memories of Kathy’s and my quest for good food in the suburbs of Chicago. On our way to Hot Doug’s from the nearest El-stop, we had walked under a bridge where the homeless barely stirred from their blankets between dark pillars as we passed by at 11am. The tunnel stank unmistakably of pee, which left me gasping a little, but which Kathy, having lost her sense of smell somehow, was unable to detect. The area between every two pillars defined the living space of one individual – old hotpots and pans bundled together in boxes sitting at the foot of stained bedlinen. When we passed by on our way back (past noon), only these objects bore witness to our silent guilt, post-binge.

Then there was the fact that the students attending the high school near our motel were carrying see-through backpacks, which Kathy informed me was a “bad sign”. The sidewalks were splattered with thrown eggs, and some kid asked if we belonged to an “Asian gang” (!). In another neighbourhood – pleasant and verdant – we saw a sign.

A Sobering Sign

I seem to have a knack for putting myself in unsafe situations, whether I land in the US or Morocco, or stay home in Singapore. Fortunately, during no part of my recent trip to the US/Canada did I feel truly “unsafe” – but I did realise anew how a short Asian girl wearing relatively clean and expensive running shoes could be viewed. And these stereotypes, no matter how complex and layered and removable they are, prevent me from truly feeling at home.

Day One – Back “Home” Sunday, Oct 26 2008 

Arriving in East Village at 8.15am on Monday, I dragged my bedraggled self up the subway steps with a heavy backpack cinched around my waist, into a pleasantly cloudy, deserted day. No one was really around – I had somehow stumbled into that no-man’s-land between early-morning joggers, and lawyers with briefcases. I had memorised the directions I had downloaded from hopstop.com, and made my feet take me a few streets south to my college friends’ apartment – down a quiet leafy lane cramped with parallel-parked cars, opposite where a certain celebrity lived in a narrow building dotted with black stars.

East Village

I had stupidly forgotten to ask for Emily and Brad’s buzzer/apartment number, so I loitered around the front of their building for a few minutes, hoping that Emily had seen my reluctantly sent text message before giving in and calling her on my Singapore cellphone to be buzzed in. As I was painfully maneuvering myself up the steep, dark stairs of what turned out to be a typical New York apartment building, Emily peeked out from behind the banisters of the second floor and said a brilliant “HI!” that jolted me out of my sleep-deprived state for a few seconds.

Then, it was a whirlwind of hugging, brief catching up, unpacking, showering and gchatting in Emily and Brad’s wonderfully cosy apartment before I had to propel myself outdoors in order to meet Kashmir outside the Bobst Library. But before that, I intended to get grilled corn from Cafe Habana – I was ravenous from having had no breakfast whatsoever, and I wanted to get started on the real eating quickly!

It was 10.15am when I left the apartment, and the day was shaping up to be a pleasant one. I felt clean, comfortable, happy to be back in the country where I had studied for four years many moons ago – a place I had considered my second home. The US is easy to live in and like, though many people who haven’t visited it feel otherwise – and New York City, the most walkable city I’ve ever been in, bar none, is easy to love.

I speedwalked down 3rd Ave, looking for Prince St, which I found without much difficulty. The takeout section of Cafe Habana wasn’t open though, much to my disappointment, and the actual cafe looked cramped and intimidating. After a little bit of dithering, I decided to go in nonetheless.

The server was peremptory – “if you’re alone, you can sit at the counter, right?” – and it turned out that they didn’t start serving grilled corn till 11am (no, I guess it didn’t seem like a breakfast item!). I wriggled onto a barstool and felt like that dreaded thing – a tourist (worse, an ignorant tourist) – amongst the nonchalant New Yorkers, who were using their laptops while sipping freshly squeezed orange juice, and chatting about the day that lay ahead. The two people sitting next to me turned out to be acquaintances who had randomly bumped into each other at the cafe. And there I was, without my grilled corn, temporarily friendless, sporting heavy eyebags, and needing to scarf my breakfast down quickly in order that I could make my meeting time with Kashmir near Union Square. It was enough to make one weep.

I ordered a Mexican omelette that turned out to be excellent, but it came without cutlery at first. I tried getting up to get it myself because the server wasn’t paying any attention to me and was slightly bristly, besides, but I was caught redhanded at the cutlery corner trying to pour a glass of water for myself as well. “Why don’t you ask for the things you need?” she grumped.

My return “home” was turning out to be freshman year all over again, and I started feeling exceptionally Asian in the worst possible way: invisible, bumbling, timid, calculating. I remembered sitting on my bed reading while my loud roommate blithely turned out the light upon exiting the room, forgetting that I was there. And I remembered thinking distinctly that I had never quite known how minorities felt until I came to the US.

But the breakfast was over quickly, and when I met Kashmir in front of Bobst 10 minutes later, I had found my voice again. Past 11am, we wound our way back to Prince St for the corn, which was more than worth it – smothered in cheese and spices, and grilled to a tasty black sheen in parts. I’d gladly go back for more, wearing my own prickly armour the next time.

Some learn how to speak up to survive; I learn how to speak up in order to feed.

Hard Not to Love… Thursday, Oct 9 2008 

… New York City, which initially jarred me in my slightly jetlagged state, with its fast-talking, sometimes-aggressive service staff, grimy corners, and the homeless who doggedly propel themselves through the subway cars.

But as the jetlag wears off, so does the grump.  Inevitably, the city embraces you with its vibrancy and energy – you feed off it, as it feeds off you.  There’s this urge to live as much as possible here – to cram as many experiences as you can within a short span of time.
 
Within the past 3 days, I’ve run along Hudson River (beautiful on a cold windy sunny morning); seen dinosaur fossils, medieval art and Vermeers; possibly spotted two celebrities at a hidden cafe in West Village (neither of whom I recognised, but Kash said that the cafe was known for celebrity sightings and both wore shades and looked slightly self-conscious – one even had a random woman following him into the cafe and snapping pictures of him); revisited the awesomeness that is the Strand; had a pastrami sandwich sitting outside the New York Public Library at dusk; watched two Broadway plays; met Liz, my ex-roommate, for a pitcherful of sangria at a Spanish bar; eaten tubs of yoghurt while watching the American presidential debate with Brad and Emily; and spotted at least four pet grooming stores with adorable little puppies frolicking about in the display windows.

It doesn’t feel as though I am about to run a marathon in 3 days, to tell the truth…

Running off a Jetlag Tuesday, Sep 30 2008 

Jetlagged these past couple of days – I always get it worse coming to this other side of the world, and almost never (touch wood) going back the other way.  The dry air didn’t help my general state of health, and tapering for the marathon seemed to worsen it – the body wasn’t used to lying still and resting and I’ve been lying awake at night thinking way too hard of relaxing my fingers and toes one by one as a means of dropping off to sleep, as they taught us in yoga.

I finally got a run in today.  It was a sunny day in interior northern British Columbia, which I have visited many times, but where I have never run – slightly under 20 degrees celsius, with a surprisingly hot dry sun and a cool breeze that made my nose run too (ha ha).  The area is very hilly but cresting the slopes, I was always rewarded by a view of the autumnal mountain range across the lake.  I probably need this form of hill training too; I’ve been too spoiled by the gentle inclines in Singapore, the worst only being the manmade overhead bridge that spans the Pan Island Expressway.
 
I’m glad I didn’t choose, after all, to run the marathon at the beginning of my trip to North America – I cannot imagine how the legs, heavy as lead after a long plane ride, and the mind, dazed and confused after radical time-zone changes, would have coped.

R&R Saturday, Aug 23 2008 

Happy Dog!

I was spoiled back when I was teaching, but man, I’ve found the past tripless 5-6 months hard. (Oops, checked again and it’s only been 4 months!)

Replaying the memories of the most recent trip can only take you this far. But I guess I am not done yet, especially since Cindy and I haven’t found time to recount everything about our too-short stint in Italy & Slovenia in writing.

Some of my favourite memories from our time in Slovenia (only 4 days!) include:-

  • The nature photography exhibition in Park Tivoli, Ljubljana
  • Lunch at Pri Skofu, the colourful little restaurant in Krakovo
  • Desserts from Bled
  • Arriving in Bohinj and strolling around the near-deserted lake by the light of the setting sun, watching a lone dog try valiantly to play with ducks in the water
  • Reading “borrowed” books in our unexpected “suite” at the Hotel Bohinj after dinner
  • Hiking in Mostnica Gorge
  • The cold, somewhat rainy walk between the villages in Bohinj – Stara Fuzina, Studor & Srednja Vas – popping into the cheesemaking museum, old alpine house (with creepy old man) and frolicking amongst the haystacks
  • Marvellous lunch of fish with breadcrumbs, cheese dumplings with butter and cream, fried cheese and the world’s best raspberry pancakes at Gostilna Rupa in Srednja Vas, with a view of the greening ski slopes

I wish we had had more time to sit in the cafes of Ljubljana, paraglide in Bohinj, and visit Piran.

Next Page »